Routes to reach the Van Long Wetland Nature Reserve from Hanoi vary. One may turn early at the Liem Tuyen intersection, traverse National Highway 1A, cross the Doan Vi bridge (marking the border between Ha Nam and Ninh Binh), and head towards the Gia Thanh Brick Factory. Continuing straight ahead, a verdant oasis catches the eye beyond the Gia Thanh Communal People's Committee.
Alternatively, a more scenic route is often favored. One follows the Cau Gie – Ninh Binh highway to its terminus, then proceeds to the Cao Bo intersection, crosses the Non Nuoc Bridge, and continues along the Day River until reaching Provincial Road 477. From there, one veer into Gia Lap commune, heading towards the Lang Van parish church of the Phat Diem diocese. Beside the church's bell tower, standing over 100 meters tall and considered the largest in Vietnam, one glimpses Van Long Wetland's azure waters.
"Van" denotes clouds, while "Long" means dragons; thus, Van Long is where dragons and clouds converge – where water collects as dragons and clouds embody water sources. The name "Van Long" likely encapsulates the dreams and aspirations of the people of Gia Vien district for a tranquil life, abundant rainfall, and gentle winds akin to "dragons meeting clouds."
Upon inquiring about this narrative from Mr. Tran Xuan Quang, Director of the Van Long Service Cooperative, which oversees the sustainable management of Vietnam's 9th Ramsar site involving hundreds of residents, we discovered that humans transformed this landscape through deliberate intervention. In the 1960s, a dyke spanning over 30 kilometers was constructed on the left bank to regulate the flow of the Day River, thereby transforming Van Long into a wetland encompassing 3,500 hectares. This alteration also inadvertently created an ideal habitat, attracting numerous migratory birds seeking respite during their journey from colder climes.
The towering rocky formations were suddenly marooned as islands amidst a vast watery expanse, inadvertently providing refuge to various species of flora and fauna that had once faced widespread hunting pressures.
Though Van Long Wetland lies 17 kilometers from Ninh Binh City and approximately 80 kilometers from Hanoi, arriving there evokes the sensation of stepping into a realm reminiscent of martial arts films. A comparable setting might be Mount Liang in China, famously depicted in the classic work "Water Margin" by Shi Nai'an. In the tale, Mount Liang sprawls across 800 miles, adorned with lush reeds and oases. Access to Song Jiang's bandit camp lies solely through waterways. However, the towering reeds, taller than a person, and the intricate network of streams and creeks make Mount Liang both "easy to approach and hard to breach."
Due to geological transformations, the once-expansive Mount Liang now only exists in a small area: Dongpinh Lake in Shandong Province, China. The resemblance between the topography of the ancient 800-mile lake and that of Van Long Wetland remains unclear. Nevertheless, residents primarily navigate the wetland by rowing boats, accommodating 3-4 individuals, to explore Meo Cao Mountain, Mam Xoi, Hom Sach, Da Ban, Nghien, Co Tien, and the caverns of Fish, Bong, Turtle, and Chanh, among others. The Fish Cave, particularly notable, spans 250 meters in length, 8 meters in height, and 10 meters in width, exhibiting grandeur. It serves as a sanctuary for catfish, perch, and banana fish. Within the complex lies Kem Cham and Mother Temple, venerating the mother of the four generals, Hong Nuong.
Though it is only early April, standing on the concrete road encircling the wetland feels sweltering, as if amidst the hustle and bustle of a scorching summer afternoon in a bustling city. Yet, venturing just a few steps further into the mountains and waters brings a refreshing breeze. Lying back and gazing upward at the layers of clouds drifting along the water, one witnesses a serene ambiance, as tranquil as a blank canvas. It's almost surreal that such a picturesque landscape is only two hours from the capital.
The indigenous people here utilize bamboo boats for various purposes. Traditionally employed for transportation and sustenance through fishing and shrimping, the boat’s role has evolved with Van Long's transformation into an eco-tourism destination. Approximately 400 boats ferry tourists, providing a significant source of income for the locals residing around the Van Long reserve. Each visitor pays tens of thousands of Vietnamese Dong for the service.
Mr. Mai Van Quyen, Director of Hoa Lu - Van Long Special Use Forest Management Board, affirmed this. He mentioned that when Ninh Binh province devised plans to preserve the biodiversity of this wetland in the early 2000s, a migration plan was proposed. However, after conducting statistical analyses, delineating land boundaries, and surveying and placing landmarks in the field, the costs soared to 300 billion VND, surpassing the available funds. After reconsideration, the province decided against relocation. Instead, it empowered indigenous people as the core agents of change in achieving sustainable conservation goals.
"Rather than exploiting natural resources in wetlands, we guide people to unlock the landscape and tourism potentials. Simultaneously, the Management Board collaborates with relevant authorities and units to regularly disseminate information, provide guidance, and mobilize people to stabilize their livelihoods," confided Mr. Quyen.
More than 20 years ago, the Van Long Wetland area was not as bustling as it is today. Motels or hotels were scarce, making it challenging to attract customers. Most tourism activities were spontaneous, and the main road connecting National Highway 38B to Van Long was narrow and muddy. Communities along the route voluntarily contributed land to expand the road and organized motorbike transportation to ferry tourists from the main road.
Though it may sound simple, shifting people's habits and behaviors is arduous. Upon learning of our interest, Quynh paused thoughtfully before recounting that she never envisioned becoming a "tour guide" in school. Despite her initial reservations, she now finds pride in her role. Her excitement was evident, she shifted the conversation to her two children, who attend school daily in the district center. "My kids wouldn't be able to attend school if I were still doing fieldwork," she admitted candidly.
Amidst her narrative, Ms. Quynh shared the legend of the tallest mountain here. Once, a fairy traversed this world and chanced upon this mountain peak. Enchanted by the scenery, she paused to admire it. She encountered a poor boy residing on the mountain, engrossed in his studies. Their love story bridging the fairy world and reality incurred heavenly punishment, resulting in the creation of two adjacent mountains – Nghien Mountain and Co Tien Mountain – forever separated, unable to unite as husband and wife.
Van Long earns its moniker as the "waveless waters" due to its tranquility, mirroring the surrounding limestone mountains like a giant mirror. The ink painting vividly etches the rugged contours of the hills while green reeds and aquatic flora frame the scene. Peering into the water reveals layers of green algae and fleeting glimpses of fish darting beneath.
Notably, on the journey north of the Van Long Wetland Nature Reserve, then along the mountain's foothills to the east, visitors may encounter Delacour's langurs (white-rumped langurs) foraging at dusk from the hill to the wetland. According to Ms. Quynh's observations, one may spot a herd of up to a dozen langurs on damp, overcast days. Their behavior is peculiar; if they encounter locals, they carry on leisurely. However, when faced with unfamiliar visitors, they disperse, calling out to one another as they ascend the mountain.
As Ms. Quynh directed our gaze, a sizable langur clung to a rocky crevice within a canyon. Upon spotting our boat, the langur retreated into the dense foliage. Were it not for the distinct white fur adorning its posterior, it would have effortlessly eluded our sight.
"If you return next month, the scenery will be even more breathtaking," Ms. Quynh offered an encouraging smile as she noticed the regretful expressions of those who missed the chance to observe the langur up close. According to her, from May to July each year, Van Long's surface transforms into a magnificent display of pink lotus blooms. This period draws the most tourists to the wetland, who delight in witnessing the bay adorned with lotus flowers and bustling with bird activity. Conversely, from November to April (the dry season), international tourists flock to the wetland to witness the spectacle of white flocks of birds taking up residence.
Mr. Nguyen Manh Hiep, a conservation expert currently affiliated with IUCN Vietnam, expressed his ever-changing emotions upon visiting Van Long. What captivates him most about this expansive 3,500-hectare land is the opportunity to photograph many stork species, ranging from white storks to large and small storks, including those in flight and those hunting snails. Occasionally, when he ventures alone, he seeks out ginseng individuals, migratory birds characterized by their black plumage and white beaks and foreheads. He described the exhilaration of tracking and capturing shots of these birds as they skim across the water, propelling themselves into flight.
"Observing and documenting birds in Vietnam is no easy feat. They are often wary of human presence, making them elusive subjects. Thus, achieving stunning bird photographs requires the right equipment, a deep understanding of bird behavior, and unwavering perseverance in pursuing one's passion," Mr. Hiep shared.
Van Long forest has discovered 457 species of vascular plants across 327 genera and 127 families. Notably, 8 species are documented in the Vietnam Red Book (1996), including Strychnos umbellate, Stemona tuberosa, Cycas, and Aglaomorpha fortunei. Regarding animals, 39 species represent 19 families, and 7 animal sets thrive here. Among them, 12 rare animal species inhabit this region, with the white-rumped langur standing out as the most significant, boasting the largest population in Vietnam. Formerly known only in Cuc Phuong National Park, this primate now finds a more secure habitat in Van Long.
Compared to its counterparts in Kim Bang district's forest area in Ha Nam province (home to about 100 animals), the white-backed langur's habitat in Van Long proves notably safer. Freed from the confines of mines and rock dust, they roam freely. Initially numbering around 40 individuals upon discovery in the early 2000s, the langur population has quintupled since then. Cooperative Director Tran Xuan Quang highlights the presence of a rare insect species, Lethocerus indicus, from the water bug species, now scarce throughout the country, in Van Long wetland. "The presence of Lethocerus indicus symbolizes the purity of the water environment and the surrounding landscape," he remarks.
Collective efforts across all levels, sectors, and governmental and civilian bodies have upheld the Red River Delta's limestone and wetland ecosystems since its inception. In December 2001, the Ninh Binh Provincial People's Committee designated the conservation area.
As a veteran, Mr. Quang has long been teased by his family for being "tied to Van Long, even at home." Whenever he encounters unfamiliarity or issues with conservation efforts, he intervenes. He reflects, "The people of Thap Ninh village, Gia Van commune, have consistently joined forces to safeguard Van Long against detrimental impacts. Now, 100% of the populace understands that protecting the environment equates to safeguarding one's life."
Gradually, Van Long is developing high-quality tourism products and services infused with the cultural essence of the ancient capital's land and people, such as exploring the "Finding the Roots" tour route. Green Van Long integrates with initiatives like "Green Tourism Week," "Green Gift Box," and "Green Sunday." However, in all endeavors, the people of Van Long prioritize sustainability, preserving the landscape and biodiversity of the largest inland wetland in the Northern Delta, focusing on safeguarding the rare langur population.
In addition to tangible results, such as the white-rumped langur population increasing to about 200, these primates have grown bolder and friendlier towards people. Mr. Nguyen Van Thoa, a resident of Van Long forest's core area, admits to witnessing langurs descending to the fields in search of food on certain days. Many nights, when he struggles to sleep, he hears langurs calling to each other, seemingly from somewhere near his porch.
With a house nestled against a rocky cliff, offering food and lodging, Mr. Thoa's family has become a regular destination for visitors seeking langur sightings. He reveals that among all areas in Van Long, the dirt road passing by his house is the closest spot where langurs can be observed with the naked eye. Initially known to only one or two individuals, the knowledge has now spread, attracting ten, then tens, hundreds, and now, every morning, Mr. Thoa boils water and prepares a large pot to welcome guests.
The transformation in Van Long has been documented. Ms. Vu Thi Duoc, Vice Chairwoman of Gia Vien District People's Committee, praises the spirit and responsibility of the Gia Van commune community in preserving and enhancing the Van Long tourism brand. "Few places have exhibited the unity and active participation of the community over decades, as Van Long has. Many international organizations and research groups have visited here for study and research purposes," she remarks.
According to the leaders of Gia Vien district, in the forthcoming years, the locality will closely adhere to the policy and direction of tourism development in Ninh Binh province, contributing to shaping the heritage homeland into a "safe – friendly – high-quality – appealing" destination. Simultaneously, they aim to bolster the national key tourist area brand, boasting two records: "Home to the largest population of Delacour's Langurs" and "Site of the largest natural canvas" in Vietnam.
Before leaving the wetland conservation area spanning 7 communes of Gia Vien district, we heard the tale of a French tourist named Robest searching for a place documented in his father's memoir, a Vietnam War veteran.
In that memoir, a passage describes a peculiar wetland encountered during their northern march – where birds darkened the sky during the fall, and monkeys and gibbons descended from the mountains each afternoon in search of water and sustenance, seemingly untouched by human presence. Following the book's pages, Robest journeyed to Gia Vien in 2011, seeking out this enigmatic land.
After spending days in Van Long, Robest confirmed that this was indeed the land where his father had been stationed. He witnessed the stork island area at dusk, observing flocks of gray herons, teal, and storks soaring overhead, creating a captivating river tableau.
It suddenly dawned on us: if only director Jordan Vogt-Roberts had chosen to film the science fiction movie "Kong: Skull Island" at Van Long Wetland earlier (released in 2017), perhaps Robest wouldn't have had to wait so long to revisit his father's memories. Yet, thanks to those days of wandering, he had the opportunity to sit in a thatched house, gazing at the clouds and sky, with the distant call of storks mingling with the tranquil rustle of the reed beds.
